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<title>Serenutu RSS Feed</title><link>http://www.serenutu.com/index.html</link><description>Stories from Italy</description><dc:language>en</dc:language><dc:creator>stories@serenutu.com</dc:creator><dc:rights>Copyright 2006 Serenutu</dc:rights><dc:date>2010-01-07T16:54:50+01:00</dc:date><admin:generatorAgent rdf:resource="http://www.realmacsoftware.com/" />
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<lastBuildDate>Wed, 20 Jan 2010 08:22:50 +0100</lastBuildDate><item><title>Una Serena Epifania a Tutti&#x21;</title><dc:creator>stories@serenutu.com</dc:creator><category>None</category><dc:date>2010-01-07T16:54:50+01:00</dc:date><link>http://www.serenutu.com/index.html#unique-entry-id-62</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.serenutu.com/index.html#unique-entry-id-62</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[Yesterday I stood at the kitchen counter mashing persimmons through a strainer.   I found myself in this situation against my will.   Two weeks before Zio Danilo, while lunching with us on Santo Stefano, calmly asked if anyone wanted a few persimmons.   A gift to one of the priests, probably from a backyard tree, was sitting unwanted in the church basement.

...The field across the street was her solution for many unwanted things; old fruit, Christmas trees, worn out clothes, my kitchen table.   Of course she used it as a metaphor&hellip;most of the time.

&ldquo;Sure, I&rsquo;ll take them,&rdquo; I said, not wanting to turn down free local produce.   Of course I had not understood exactly how much fruit he had been talking about until Zio Danilo reappeared from a dark room under the church with a crate of the carrot-orange fruit.   He swung it into the car as I stared at the work cut out for me and rethought my decision. 

So I educated myself on how and, most importantly, when to use persimmons, called cachi in Italian.   Hachiya persimmons, as I discovered, must be eaten only when extremely soft, like a water balloon.   &ldquo;Unripened persimmons contain the soluble tannin shibuol, which, upon contact with a weak acid, polymerizes in the stomach and forms a gluey coagulum that can affix with other stomach matter.&rdquo;   I got that off Wikipedia and while alarming, the first sign that a persimmon may not be ready to eat would be the throat-closing astringency.   The gluey coagulum is just the cherry on top, so to speak.   As I scooped up the gelatinous flesh into the strainer, repeating to myself water balloon, water balloon, I wondered who on earth might have been the first person to eat such a fruit. ...  I sighed as I picked up one more caco. 

...Yesterday was the Epifania, the celebration of the visitation of the Magi to the Baby Jesus.   I got that off Wikipedia too.   Here it is simply celebrated with 40 foot bonfires, candy toting witches and hot mulled wine.   We were expected next door at Anna Maria&rsquo;s and Giancarlo for lunch, sort of a closing-out-the-season-blow-out meal.   Before going, as I mashed cachi, I listened to a variety show on television, sort of a Catholic televangelist holiday special.   In the living room I could hear the host wishing a &ldquo;serena epifania a tutti&rdquo; or a peaceful epiphany to everyone. 

...Epiphany also marks the day that we can take all the Christmas decorations down, though truth be told, I had already removed the beautiful, but frail tree that I had bought to replace Luciano&rsquo;s.   I had banished his five year old tree that just wouldn&rsquo;t die to the outside terrace this year, but decorated it with a bag full of old ornaments I bought at the market.   At the same market I purchased its replacement, a symmetrical, elegant specimen that almost immediately dropped almost all its needles in a spiteful rain of green confetti which then lay in drifts beneath its suddenly naked branches.   It now sits in the sun facing the campo, awaiting the inevitable.   Luciano&rsquo;s tree, squat and smug, is going nowhere.


At lunch we ate roast pork and new potatoes, grilled radicchio and artichoke cr&egrave;me.   For some reason, even after eating entirely too much in the last few weeks, it tasted wonderful; honest and satisfying, full of flavor without being heavy.   I complimented her again and asked for the artichoke recipe which I have written up along with Luciano&rsquo;s favorite artichokes in the cooking section.

Again she commented, &ldquo;I am not a chef, I am a woman who cooks.&rdquo;   With that she pulled out a card from a hidden drawer of the table.   With a quick look at me she opened it and read. ...  She often tries to read the cards she gets from my family, but the English, read in pure Italian pronunciation, is really tough to get. ...  This time, it was Spanish and then&hellip;Italian!   A Christmas card from my sister-in-law written in Italian.   With a satisfied smile Anna Maria snapped it shut. 

I told her about my freezer full of persimmon flesh, ready to use. 

...Have you used the pomegranate seeds yet?&rdquo; 

This was last year&rsquo;s free case of local produce, a gift from the family down the street, that I had processed, frozen and not yet figured out how to use.

...She wagged her finger at me, &ldquo;I don&rsquo;t want to see that persimmon come over here this summer.&rdquo;    Every year I bring over a few items for her to keep for me in her freezer while we are away.   The pomegranate seeds had already summered there. 

...I also told her about the news of Spot our neighbor the doctor&rsquo;s dog who had recently learned how to climb over the fence to dance in the street, blissfully dodging cars and death.   I had gotten the latest from the doctor&rsquo;s wife when I went in to refill my prescription.   I have become quite attached to Spot, a gangly untrained English setter, but it was alarming to see him on our side of the fence, not just a little out of control.   During his last escape Spot ended up under a car.   He was unhurt but the understandably shaken driver of the car knocked on the doctor&rsquo;s door after seeing the dog who, knowing he was in trouble for something, had gotten back over the fence and was nonchalantly whistling his best &ldquo;who, me?&rdquo; ...  He has since been exiled to a friend&rsquo;s house who is keeping him in his roofed cage next to his wiry, hungry hunting dogs while a new prison&hellip;er, kennel is being built. 

...&ldquo;How do you know all this?&rdquo; ]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Giving Thanks&#xd;</title><dc:creator>stories@serenutu.com</dc:creator><category>None</category><dc:date>2009-12-30T06:41:49+01:00</dc:date><link>http://www.serenutu.com/index.html#unique-entry-id-61</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.serenutu.com/index.html#unique-entry-id-61</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[Photo by xrrr<div xmlns:cc="http://creativecommons.org/ns#" about="http://www.flickr.com/photos/xrrr/2610807053/"><a rel="cc:attributionURL" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/xrrr/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/xrrr/</a> / <a rel="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/2.0/">CC BY-NC-SA 2.0</a></div>

I recently travelled to Virginia on the spur of the moment and a dirt-cheap plane ticket.   The original purpose was to see my mother Cynthia, but as plans blossomed, it became a Thanksgiving pilgrimage which then spilled into a shopping expedition the proportions of which tested my newly acquired serenity and anti-materialistic philosophy.   Though it may have just been a period of severe superficiality, I am blaming it all on the mall.

Because Luciano and I are normally in the US only in the summer, this posed an unusual opportunity to not only find winter type items, but also sales like no other.   I collected a list of requests from friends, Luciano suggested I wear a helmet, my sister and I planned strategy, and I fantasized of retail opportunities of which dreams are made.   I planned to arrive at my mother&rsquo;s door with two empty suitcases, wearing nothing but a sturdy pair of walking shoes.

In the end, it was of course not so dramatic.   We arrived on Friday morning at the mall leisurely hour of ten and discovered none of the promised no, threatened, crowds.   There was a moment of manufactured mania at the Ann Taylor where the staff was handing out coupons at the door promising an additional forty percent discount until noon only.   Inside we joined a lot of tall, upwardly mobile women fighting over ugly suits.   For some reason it all looked more interesting with forty percent off.   Less so when at 3:30 we passed the store again to see the staff person still handing out those coupons. 

...The floor in Old Navy was littered with trampled t-shirts and pajamas, detritus from the early morning rush.   As the staff gamely folded the endless piles around them, I imagined a shopper reaching down to pick up an item from underfoot after having been ground into the linoleum and actually consider buying it.

Six hours later my sister and I emerged to discover the parking lot in chaos.   It seems that the crowds had decided to arrive after the rush and thus created their own.   We smugly left the waiting cars to fight over our spot and drove past the miles of traffic waiting to get in.   Had I not been feeling just a bit queasy from all the shopping, it would have been quite triumphant.

One might imagine that this would be enough for me, but it was not.   I found myself desperately hunting for such disparate purchases as kitchen scissors, a left contact lens, a set of books for a literature class (bargain price, short, classic) Cholula hot sauce, copies of Dwell Magazine for Luciano and something to keep the neighbor&rsquo;s cat out of my garden.

...Having revealed how I feel about cats, I quickly escaped the store with a one pound bag of cat repellant which went into my suddenly very full suitcase.

The lowest point in my retail madness was a twenty minute dash into a Target on the way to the airport.   I found myself rushing the aisles, like a woman who is being sent to the moon, grabbing at items that I felt I really needed&hellip;liquid whiteout, little bottles of hand sanitizers, Sharpie pens, a Martha Stewart magazine&hellip;only to find all here later. ...  The point is that but for a few bright spots in my visit: Thanksgiving dinner, a family Christmas tree expedition, a walk at Great Falls park, the entire trip was awash in this unexplainable urgency to buy stuff.   I had become the worst kind of tourist: the kind who travels to acquire objects as trophies, rather than experiences.

...Perhaps I still had my head down looking for the most expeditious way to get from point A to point B.   Perhaps it was some sort of artificiality that had rubbed off on me.   I don&rsquo;t know, but while on my commute to Treviso I ran into a herd of sheep, commuting the other way.   Almost literally, as a group of donkeys leading the flock came right at me and swerved to the left only at the last minute as the rest of the herd parted around my car Topo.   I was furious to be stopped in my tracks like that, on a major road, on my way to work, and began snapping photos with my phone. ...  Hundreds of sheep bleated past my window, brushing up and knocking against Topo&rsquo;s flanks as I muttered to myself and fumbled with the camera.   The dogs and then the sheepherders finally approached, whereupon I rolled down my window and snapped, &ldquo;This just isn&rsquo;t done!&rdquo; 

I got the expected dismissive wave of the hand, but I shocked myself.   All the way to Treviso I mulled over my reaction.   Had I become so petty that during a simple timeless event such as getting in a sheep jam I could only focus on the fact that they were in my way?   I wished I had spent more time watching the river of animals pass by my window while thinking, yet again, how different my life is now, instead of having my head down cursing my telephone camera.   The sheep were not even trampling my garden&hellip;why had I been so angry? 

Saddened over my sudden loss of patience and observational skills, I thought this over all day. ...  Was the fact that I recognized my condition enough to make a difference? 

...The annual radicchio festival was going on; an odd celebration for which hundreds of the truly depressing plants are trucked in and placed in the square for what seems to be about 24 hours.   The elderly gentlemen who gather at the square every day for a morning glass of prosecco were admiring the beds of limp purple vegetables. ...  As she passed me her heel jammed a bit in the cobblestones and she almost went down, but maintained her equilibrium and composure as she swept by. 


...That evening as I was driving home, head down, point a, point b, I caught out of the corner of my left eye the tip of a snow-covered mountain in the nearby range, blazing hot pink at its icy peak.   It was just a glimpse, but I pulled over next to an open field to see it again.   And just like that I looked up, caught my breath&hellip;and put my head back to take in a glorious sunset.   The Dolomites were on fire and the sky to the sea boiled in reds, golds and yellows over the stubbled corn fields.   Houses glowed as if ignited, like so many bonfires scattered across the farmland&hellip;and then suddenly it was all gone.   Cars sped past me in the gathering dusk, in a hurry to get somewhere.   Quietly I got back into Topo and drove home. ]]></content:encoded></item><item><title>Fresh&#x21;</title><dc:creator>stories@serenutu.com</dc:creator><category>None</category><dc:date>2009-12-14T06:22:46+01:00</dc:date><link>http://www.serenutu.com/index.html#unique-entry-id-60</link><guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.serenutu.com/index.html#unique-entry-id-60</guid><content:encoded><![CDATA[Late again, I pushed Topo my trusty little car, through the fog on my way to work.   Yellow palm shaped leaves swirled away from the road behind me, kicked up in my wake.   Ahead a crew of road workers was finally laying markings on the road.   Recently repaved, that wide, unmarked swath of black tarmac was too tempting for the hot rodders, scrawny kids on barely legal mopeds swayed crazily across the smooth black surface

Fresh white paint cut into the black and I admired it as I sped through Mareno.   Up ahead a woman stepped up to her car parked at the side of the road and suddenly, without looking left or right, opened her door.   I swerved over the line to avoid her and heard the swish as the tires hit the wet paint and then a soft thup, thup, thup, as Topo laid down little tracks of white.   Her own little mark on the road to Conegliano.

On the way home later I stopped at the chocolate factory to see if they had gotten back up to speed after the summer break.   This small non-descript building sits low in the curve of a small river, behind an arched bridge.   The folly of this design, which hides the factory from drivers coming up over the bridge, is truly apparent at Easter when crowds descend, parking willy-nilly, slowing down, and risking life and limb for a three foot fondant Easter egg.   The egg-jambs can be perilous. 

Christmas is a calmer chocolate season and, being only the end of November, they are not yet cranked up to full production.   But I had not yet been inside since they shut down in May as the weather started to get too hot for chocolate and I wanted to see what was going on.

The shop shelves were still partly bare, some were stocked with toys and strange dolls, but one shelf had been filled with blocks of freshly made dark and milk chocolate blocks.   They had also started to make Christmas figures, Santa Clauses, Befana witches and inexplicably, toadstools with little drawn faces. 

...I checked out bags of chocolate-covered hazelnuts. 

...The owner had come out

&ldquo;Do you have these made with dark chocolate?&rdquo;

&ldquo;Let me look in the back.&rdquo;

One might think he would be looking into boxes to see if they had been unpacked and the storage room stocked. 

...&ldquo;They have just finished making them.   Can you wait a moment and they will package them up for you?&rdquo;

... Fresh chocolate&hellip;can&rsquo;t be fresher.

With my stash in the car I puttered on home, up over the bridge and past the tiny bike factory where they build the Piave bicycles.   A few of them, freshly made, sat out front.   The bakery parking lot was packed with customers lining up for the late-bake.   As I passed through Bocca di Strada I noticed out of the corner of my eye a black and white trailer, clearly a dispenser of some kind and written across the top: 

...Intrigued, I pulled into the church parking lot.   If nothing else, I wanted to see what was keeping this trailer from being hooked up to someone&rsquo;s truck and driven away, milk and all.   I forgot my cynicism as examined what they were selling.   It was a distributer of fresh milk, milked today, milk from cows grazing in the pastures of Codogne, a small town about six kilometers away.   The only thing connecting it to the church was a stretched extension cord, powering the whole thing.   I couldn&rsquo;t resist and dropped 30 cents in the bottle distributer and a fresh liter bottle chattered into the chute.   Stopping to the left, I peered at the instructions as a man stepped up behind me.   Gesturing for him to go ahead I watched as he placed an empty Coke bottle in the compartment and as it was filled rapidly with a stream of milk. 

&ldquo;So I just put it in?&rdquo; ...  People always seem to like to help me&hellip;perhaps it is my mangled Italian.

&ldquo;Well, let it wash itself first.&rdquo;   The door shut and a little spray of water washed down the walls.   &ldquo;Now put in your euro and the bottle.   Tip it so there is not too much foam.&rdquo;

I dropped my coin and the door opened again and music began to play, I think it was the theme from Heidi, and fresh, raw, whole milk came shooting out of the spigot.   At exactly the top of the bottle the milk, and the music, stopped and I pulled the bottle out.   The door slid shut and its private washing ritual began again.

Placing the ice cold, unmarked bottle on the seat beside me I pondered the impossibility of finding something like this in the US.   The milk, the producers of which were bedding down for the evening a few miles away, could not be fresher or less regulated.   I have only the names Angelo and Giovanni, their phone number and slogan to count on:

...I couldn&rsquo;t wait to get home to try it and headed home.   But I didn&rsquo;t forget to look through the dusk for Topo&rsquo;s mark from this morning and was happy to see that it was still there, a little swath of white in the pitch.]]></content:encoded></item></channel>
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